mockup report

Jul. 26th, 2017 11:49 pm
mandie_rw: me in late victorian dress holding book (natformbeige)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I decided to be clever this afternoon, and work on the dinner dress bodice mockup while I had my corset on already. I'd already cut mockup #2 longer when I discovered it to be far too short-waisted (as [personal profile] mala_14  warned me!), so I just had to sew that together and do a try-on.

Hmmmmmm.

Hmmmmmmmmmmm.

Well...despite adding 3" to the length of the body, and 0.5" to each shoulder seam, the damn thing was still at least 2" too short, possibly more. (Is this pattern for people with a 5" long ribcage or WHAT...is this where the notion of freakishly small Victorians came from?) The armscye was still way too small, and the angle of the shoulder seam was totally whack. I wouldn't expect a scaled pattern to fit me right off the bat, but sheesh, was this pattern made by a paint-huffing monkey? Or maybe it was made for a paint-huffing monkey.

Anywhoodle, I decided I have neither the time nor the inclination to pretty much take it to bits and completely refit it...if I wanted to do that I'd have draped a pattern on Mabel from scratch. I didn't want to do that. Truly Victorian it is! Which always takes some tweaking, but which at least I know aren't made by aforementioned paint-huffing monkeys.

So, til I get hold of that (and since I only ordered my wools from FFC just over a week ago, so who knows when those will show up), it's sew-something-else time! I probably ought to do things like finish the skirt that's been hanging over the back of my chair for a week and a half, but I may start something Gettysburg-related instead.

Costume College!

Jul. 26th, 2017 03:46 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
Hooray! We've made it here!

My twill tape for my limited class is at home. Oops...

Beige bodice NEVERMORE

Jul. 26th, 2017 04:14 pm
mandie_rw: (Default)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I'm even tired of the word "beige" at this point, sheesh. But I'm quite happy with how it came out, and I think it looks loads better than the Ugly Shirtwaist! (Which won't be retired, like, ever, because it's great for hot weather. But now at least I have another option.)

Blog post here
sitting on steps
Amusingly, there was a truck JUST out of frame in all these pics...they were setting up for some sort of event, and there was an enormous truck and trailer just to the left side of the house. And half my pics had some rando in a red t-shirt walking back and forth in the background. Ahhh, gotta love editing! xD

And now I am totally going to be late to work because I wanted to get this all out of the way before I went! Heh.

things

Jul. 25th, 2017 10:27 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
- At this point in time, I feel moved to almost offer my condolences to those of you going to Costume College; you guys seem so stressed! (Not all of you...but a lot.) I guess when you're a veteran it's worth it...? but as someone who's never been, it sounds pretty miserable at this point!

- Beige print bodice of never-ending-ness and its silly cuffs are done, although not in time to get pics today. Hurray! This damn thing's dragged on waaaaay too long (long enough that I'm tired of the bottom half before I ever got to wear the top half!).

- I've gotten fairly tired of my red spoon bonnet (yes, I'm still keeping Gettysburg in mind, even as I work on Belvidere); after all, I've been wearing it since 2011! I still love the color (shocking I know), but it was a synthetic, albeit a decent one, and it's fairly crap construction-wise, involving a polyester lining and even *gasp* glue. I know. 2011 was a long time ago. *grin* But I sternly told myself I wasn't allowed to replace it unless I sold it off first. Amazingly, somebody bought it (actually two somebodies tried to buy it), and I sent it off today. So that'll just about pay for the two yards of taffeta to cover and trim the new one! Well, it'll be two yards if I go with the navy option, as I would trim that in pink...but I keep coming back to a brick red and copper shot that's baaaaasically the same color as the bonnet I just got rid of! I might have a fixation on dark reds, you guys.

(The solution here is obviously to make two bonnets. Ha ha ha.)

Or no new hat...

Jul. 25th, 2017 04:35 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I was enjoying working on the hat last night, and then I wasn't. So I decided I was done, and I'm wearing the antique hat.

With that, I'm ready for Costume College!

beige bodice, one more time

Jul. 24th, 2017 11:46 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I thought I was almost done...but then as I was ironing the pleats of voile for the white collar, it occurred to me that I ought to have cuffs as well! Damn. Wish it hadn't occurred to me, haha. I could make plain ones, but I know that pleated ones to match the collar (and the upper side of the dress fabric cuffs, for that matter) will look better. Okay, okay...

It's supposed to be in the low 80s tomorrow and Wednesday, so I'll gussy up and get photos one of those days (it might rain tomorrow so I can't promise tomorrow). And then I can wad the whole thing up into my 19thc costume bin and be done with it, whew! It's been hanging around for far too long. And then back to the dinner dress! I think.

Hat...

Jul. 24th, 2017 04:47 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
The suffragette hat frame is done. I had to do the curved part of the crown twice since I set it too low the first time. I think it's going to work. It's at that awkward stage where your hair isn't done and the opening isn't lined and the buckram base has awful stitches, but it's promising!

(no subject)

Jul. 24th, 2017 02:53 pm
theladyrebecca: (Default)
[personal profile] theladyrebecca
Everything for CoCo is finished(ish). I tried on the finished Belle dress for the first time last night, and there's a weird baggy section in the center of the back. So I'm trying to decide if I want to redo the zipper in that one section to take it in. I think it will depend on how much free time I wind up having this evening. I opted to work late to get more hours, which means I'll likely only have less than an hour at home before my audition. And then I'll probably be home at about 8pm, and since I have to wake up between 2am-2:30 to get to the airport, I should go to bed right away. So basically, right now I'm leaning towards not fixing it. 

I also made the stupid mistake of leaving an uncapped highlighter on my sewing table last night, and it spent the night touching one of the ties on the vintage apron I'm wearing for Belle. I tried bleaching it this morning, which lightened it, but did not make it go away. I'm going to try oxyclean when I get home. 

And I still need to pack some of my regular outfit stuff, for Disney, Thurs, and next Monday. Then the very last stuff I won't be able to pack till tomorrow morning. But I did most of it over the weekend, including driving over an hour to Everett, so that my roommate could bring down the bigger and less packable things for me. So glad she drives down!

Fort Mott Boer War Event

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:10 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Second Boer War, to be specific.

(The Facebook event just said "Boer War", mind you, with no dates. Apparently this is colloquial for the second war...but as 1/ we didn't know this til yesterday as that's when the park put up the event description, and 2/ none of us have c.1900 summer dresses anyway...we cheerfully assumed it was the first war in the early 1880s, as that's what we have clothes for. As assumed...nobody cared. *grin*)
boer war 1
Read more... )

Robin's flickr album here

Save

Definitely the Brunswick!

Jul. 23rd, 2017 03:28 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
So, I pulled out the Brunswick, tried it on (sort of, no corset or anything) and remembered the super tight sleeves. Hmph. So, instead of doing the sensible thing and getting something else out, I spent I think about three hours redoing the sleeves. It was fairly easy, just fiddly. Strangely, the upper sleeve was much easier than the lower sleeves, which are just basted in. Those had practically no seam allowance which made it weird. The sleeves all have lapped seams now instead of the original types they had. It's much easier to sew a lapped seam on a set sleeve and a sleeve with almost no seam allowance.

Then I packed and noticed it was three and I hadn't really eaten anything and *thud*

beige bodice again, again

Jul. 22nd, 2017 11:57 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I was pretty lazy as regards sewing today...I could have gotten the bodice all finished if I'd really tried, but...didn't. xD Tonight I tried it on, "it's really almost done! just need to finish the neck! I could totally wear this tomorrow!", but only had it on for about 35 seconds before I remembered why I wasn't pushing myself to finish and wear it tomorrow. Hot! (The sewing room is un-air-conditioned, and it's still 82 at midnight. Shirtwaist 'tis!)

So I just need to put a facing in the neck edge - Bodice Take 1 had a collar, but that collar doesn't fit anymore, plus the fit of the neck at the back is just a wee bit funky still, and it's a lot more obvious with a collar on. I did a brief survey of my books, and it looks like a ton of early 1880s had just a white collar, rather than a dress-collar-and-white-collar combo. So I have zero qualms about doing a plain finish! (I could pipe it, but I don't want to and you can't make me.) I do still have to make a white collar to tack in, unless the one from my blue wool 1878 dress will work. Don't think it will as that's a v-neckline and this one is much higher, but we'll see.



Costume College!

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:11 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I think I have a lineup for Costume College! Took me long enough...

Thursday--Beach pajamas, 100% done

Friday Day--Suffragette day dress. Technically 100%, but I want a new hat and new sash, neither of which are mandatory. I have my daisy votes for women ribbon, red, white, and blue one, original button, and a reproduction banner. I really want to make the hat though because I came up with the pattern myself and really want to see how it goes together.

Friday night--Suffragette evening dress. 100%. I'm worried about forgetting to pack the tattoo. After last year forgetting all my jewelry...

Saturday day--Checked Brunswick. I just moved the neck button on my cotton habit shirt that I made about a zillion years ago. I tried on that and the linen shirt I made to go with it in 2013. Not only did the older one fit better, which is a little embarrassing, none of the ruffles were torn off. And the neck button needed to be moved on the linen one too, so easy choice.

Saturday night--Beaded Regency. Another technically 100% because it's done and wearable, but I want the pink springed corset which is almost done.

Sunday day--1790s bird dress. Yes, I just wore it, but I love the construction and birds.

And nicely, these aren't, except for the Brunswick, large costumes. So I'm hoping through strategic packing to have room for large amounts of stash. I've also decided to bring thing things I want to sell. I may be nice, but I'm not giving away 7 yards of silk brocade I'll never use. Either way, I'm freeing up lots of space. Now, time, is another thing! But my leftover stash is pretty much sorted, so it'll just be determining what's free and what's not...

Hat so far

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:22 pm
mala_14: (Default)
[personal profile] mala_14
This is the straw hat after being shaped. Still needs lining and trim. I think I like it, but I'm quite certain I'll like it more with a bunch of crap stuck all over it.


Spring corset number two...

Jul. 21st, 2017 10:32 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I was so happy with the first springed corset, I decided I needed another one, if time worked out. Although I fit the straps on the green one under the beaded dress, I didn't trust them to stay--they did need to be pinned under the bird dress which has a higher neckline.

So now I have a pale pink one started. The springs are in. It has a flat section at the center back and the straps on either side of that. It'll be interesting to see how it works!

I think I can finish tomorrow...

oops

Jul. 21st, 2017 11:30 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Sewed in the side wedges properly, and reboned all the seams today - and then noticed I'd managed to sew it with the bodice front twisted round itself. Whoops. I'll just unpick the shoulder seam, as that's the path of least resistance...

Tomorrow.

(Forecast for Sunday is currently in the mid-80s, so I don't have any pressure to get it done in time for that! Ugly shirtwaist carries the day yet again.)

beige bodice again

Jul. 20th, 2017 11:38 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Mostly successfully futzed with the beige bodice today to get it to fit - it's not really 100%, but it's vastly better than before. (And when all's said and done...it's not the most attractive print in the world anyway. So.) I will have to put a wedge in the sleeves to get them to fit, but I didn't have to piece in the front of the armscye, so that's good.
beige bodice front
I didn't get around to actually taking the basting stitches out, cutting lining pieces, and sewing the awkward fixer-pieces in properly...but I'm off tomorrow so I can do it then. (It's definitely going to be too hot to wear this bodice if we do go on Sunday, but I'd like to finish it anyway! Just putting it on and taking it off got me all hot and grumpy. I think I need to acknowledge to myself that just 'cause it's cotton, doesn't make it a Philadelphia-summer-appropriate dress...)
beige bodice side
There are some stupid side wrinkles that I don't think will come out even when the side's reboned, but oh well. I'll just consider myself lucky I could get the damn thing to fit at all and call it a day! Not all home sewers in 1880 had perfectly-fitting bodices, right? ;)

Done!

Jul. 20th, 2017 07:42 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I tried on the suffragette evening dress and decided against basting the skirt and bodice together. It seemed like it would work unbasted, but I pinned it anyway. Then the pins came out a little wonky, and I decided it would be fine.

I needed another tuck in the petticoat. After doing the first five nicely, I did the world's sloppiest tuck above the ruffle. I'm sure it's not the first petticoat to have a giant sloppy tuck.

Then I tried the suffragette day skirt on over the petticoat to see if it would work, and figured I may as well mark the new closures, so those are done. I moved the snap, but just added extra bars instead of moving them.

So, I think everything that has to be done is done. I still want a new hat, but...

Before and After!

Jul. 20th, 2017 05:20 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
2017-07-20_05-20-42 IMG_20170720_171249

Before and after--no tucks and tucks!

I hate making tucks, but as I was doing it, I just reminded myself that adding tucks to a petticoat is much faster than making a new petticoat. And they're pretty!

I think this is short enough to wear with the suffragette evening dress now. And it should be a good length for the day skirt too, so I can pack less. The petticoat and a corset cover is much better for packing than a petticoat and a princess slip! And my new goal is to pack as little as possible so I can take as much extra stash fabric as possible...

Now, closures on the suffragette evening skirt...

(no subject)

Jul. 20th, 2017 01:59 pm
theladyrebecca: (Default)
[personal profile] theladyrebecca
I got home from rehearsal 45 mins early yesterday (which meant I got home at about 9:50pm), and made the possibly irresponsible decision to watch at least part of the movie due back at the library today while I cut out pieces for the Beauty and the Beast dress. I was going to just watch half the movie, and just cut the skirt, but then that turned into the whole movie and the whole dress and going to bed just after midnight. Whoops. But at least it's cut out!

My goal for this afternoon is to assemble the entire dress except the zipper (since I'm not going to Joanns till tomorrow). Hopefully I'll even do the hem. And I want to cut out all the organdy pieces for class. I'm thinking that if I cut all that out, I'll be better able to figure out how much muslin I need for all the class pieces, too. I don't think I have much (if any) muslin in the stash, so that will have to wait till after I hit Joanns as well. Then I can cut out the rest of the pieces on Saturday. And pack. And drop off all the stuff that's too big to pack to my roommate, who is driving down and luckily only lives a little over an hour away from me. 

Done!

Jul. 19th, 2017 09:14 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
The beach pajamas are done! I even secured the threads on the ends of the darts. I should probably whip the seam allowances, but eh.

On to more little things! Except for wanting another spring corset (with different straps), everything now is small.

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